Dog Behavior

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0 height="100%"><tr> <td valign="top" width=189 style="border-right: 1px solid #C0C0C0;" BGCOLOR="#996633" TEXT="#080000"> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Home Page"><IMG SRC="0ac931a0.gif" border=0 width="147" height="26" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id7.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Adopt a Dog"><IMG SRC="086981d0.gif" border=0 width="152" height="29" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></A></div> <div> <IMG SRC="095941d0.gif" border=0 width="148" height="29" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <A HREF="id3.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Homemade Goodies"><IMG SRC="12c911e0.gif" border=0 width="145" height="30" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id6.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Bark Park Loacations"><IMG SRC="08c961c0.gif" border=0 width="150" height="28" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id11.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Pooches On Parade"><IMG SRC="08e911f0.gif" border=0 width="145" height="31" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id12.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Resources"><IMG SRC="19f931a0.gif" border=0 width="147" height="26" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id9.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Vet Advice"><IMG SRC="092931b0.gif" border=0 width="147" height="27" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id18.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="About Us"><IMG SRC="4b1921b0.gif" border=0 width="146" height="27" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></A></div> </td> <td valign="top" width="100%" BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <bR> <div> <I><B>Dog Behavior</B></I></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>Introducing Pets to a new dog     </B></div> <div> Source: Humane Society of the country-regionplaceUS</div> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="0" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="763" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 189 WIDTH="507"><div> From "the leader of the pack" to "the top dog," plenty of simplistic metaphors come from the canine world. But relationships between canines can be pretty complex, beginning with the very first meeting. Like most animals who live in groups, dogs establish their own social structure, sometimes called a dominance hierarchy. This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among pack members. Dogs also establish territories, which they may defend against intruders or rivals. Obviously, dogs' social and territorial nature affects their behavior whenever a new dog is introduced to the household. </div> <bR> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="4a5d5b40.jpg" border=0 width="213" height="180" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <div> <B>Introduction Techniques:</B></div> <div> <B>Choose A Neutral Location</B> Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on leashes, begin the introductions in an area unfamiliar to each, such as a park or a neighbor's yard. If you frequently walk your resident dog in a nearby park, she may view that area as her territory, too, so choose a less familiar site. If you are adopting your dog from an animal shelter, you might even bring your resident dog to the local shelter and introduce the two there. </div> <div> <B>Use Positive Reinforcement</B> From the first meeting, help both dogs experience "good things" when they're in each other's presence. Let them sniff each other briefly, which is normal canine greeting behavior. As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone of voice; never use a threatening tone. (Don't allow them to investigate and sniff each other for too long, however, as this may escalate to an aggressive response.) After a short time, get the attention of both dogs and give each a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as "sit" or "stay." Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals. Continue with the "happy talk," food rewards, and simple commands. </div> <div> <B>Be Aware of Body Postures</B> One body posture that indicates things are going well is a "play-bow." One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play, and a posture that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing up on one dog's back, teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff-legged gait, or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly getting each dog interested in something else. For example, both handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down, and reward each with a treat. The dogs' interest in the treats should prevent the situation from escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other. </div> <div> <B>Taking the Dogs Home</B> When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other's presence without fearful or aggressive responses, and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to take them in the same vehicle will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how trouble-free the initial introduction has been, and how many dogs are involved. </div> <div> If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to "gang up" on the newcomer. </div> <div> It is important to support the dominant dog in your household, even if that turns out to be the newcomer. This may mean, for example, allowing the dominant dog to claim a favored sleeping spot as his or to have access to a desirable toy. Trying to impose your preference for which dog should be dominant can confuse the dogs and create further problems. </div> <div> <B>Introducing Puppies to Adult Dogs</B></div> <div> Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully. Before the age of four months, puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that they've had enough. Well-socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set limits with puppies with a warning growl or snarl. These behaviors are normal and should be allowed. Adult dogs who aren't well-socialized, or who have a history of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive behaviors, such as biting, which could harm the puppy. For this reason, a puppy shouldn't be left alone with an adult dog until you're confident the puppy isn't in any danger. Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy, and some extra individual attention as well.</div> <div> <B>When to Get Help</B></div> <div> If the introductions don't go smoothly, contact a professional animal behaviorist immediately. Dogs can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Punishment won't work, and could make things worse. Fortunately, most conflicts between dogs in the same family can be resolved with professional guidance.</div> <div> <I>Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, CityplaceDenver, StateColorado.</I><FONT SIZE="1" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><I> </I></FONT></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="4589dad0.jpg" border=0 width="157" height="173" ALIGN="RIGHT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> <div> <B>The “Sit” Exercise  </B></div> <bR> <div> All mannerly dogs should know that sitting is the best way to encourage people to say hello! </div> <bR> <div> <B>Step 1</B>: Teach your dog to sit on command. Stand up, show the dog a treat in your hand, say “Sit!” and lift the treat up and back over the dog's nose (aim for about four inches above and in line between the dog's ears). Most dogs will track the treat with their eyes, causing the head to go up and back, while the rear end naturally goes down onto the floor. Voilá! You have a </div> <div> sitting dog. Immediately say “Yes!” and give the dog the treat. If the dog backs up or jumps up, you are likely holding your hand too far away from the dog's nose. You can also practice by a wall so the dog can't back away from you. Get the dog standing up again and repeat the procedure.</div> <bR> <div> <B>Step 2</B>: Once the dog catches on and sits when you lure him with the treat, fake him out by pretending that you have the treat in your hand. Show him the treat, but surreptitiously switch it to your other hand. Say “Sit,” hold out your hand and move it in exactly the same manner as you did before. Invariably your dog will sit. Say “Yes!” and bring your other hand in to deliver the treat to his mouth. After a few repetitions, do not show him the treat first. This teaches him to be less reliant on seeing an actual treat in order to perform the behavior.</div> <bR> <div> <B>Step 3</B>: Gradually lessen the amount of movement with your hand. Say “Sit,” hold your hand up about 8-10 inches from his face, and wait a moment. Most likely he will sit. If he doesn't, help him out a bit by moving your hand up and back. Try it again. The goal is to just say “Sit!” without having to move your hand at all or even hold it out toward him. Always deliver the treat from your other hand. You can also get him used to the treats being on a table or counter or in your pocket. This way, after he sits, you reach to get the treat to give him. This teaches the dog to be patient and it teaches him that he never knows where the treat will come from. Without these last two steps, some dogs become so reliant on the treat that they won't sit unless the treat is clearly visible.</div> <bR> <div> Source: Aspca</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Clicker Training</B><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B> </B></FONT><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>by Lori Roper  </B></FONT><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000FF" FACE="Arial" ><B>www.NexusDogs.com</B></FONT></div> <bR> <div> I recently attended the ClickerExpo in Tucson.  Hosted by Sunshine Books, it is a </div> <div> convention for clicker trainers featuring some of the best minds in the business.  Classes included both scientific and practical discussions on use of the clicker method for training animals.  Subjects ranged from small pets and dogs to horses and zoo animals, including fish.  There was even some information on how clickers can be used with people, particularly for coaching athletes and dance instruction.  Topics covered simple behaviors to complex, and everything in-between.  It was a<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><IMG SRC="438cc9e0.jpg" border=0 width="204" height="158" ALIGN="RIGHT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></FONT> wonderful, wonderful experience.</div> <bR> <div> Clickers are now being used in just about every discipline of the dog training world.  They are used for the training of companion dogs, therapy dogs, service dogs, bomb-sniffing dogs and more.  Dog sports trainers are also taking notice.  Clickers can be found at Agility practice, Rally and Competition Obedience, and Freestyle (Doggie Dancing.)</div> <bR> <div> Clickers are gaining ground because clicker training is fun, easy and effective.  Dogs can be taught to do almost anything with a clicker and they truly do enjoy the process.  Clicker training never uses coercive methods for getting the behaviors you want, so neither the dog nor the handler is ever uncomfortable.  It is especially well-suited to children.  Mistakes aren't even a problem.  Your dog might get an extra treat or two.  Not exactly the end of the world.</div> <bR> <div> My clients and I use clickers in a lot of our training.    We use them for Conformation, Rally Obedience, and Agility, in addition to companion dog training and basic manners.  Clickers are very precise.  They're great for straightening up sits, working at a distance, and precision heeling.  They provide clear information to the dog about what behavior you are looking for and help him internalize the training.  This results in a very accurate and dependable performance.  Dogs reach goals and handlers experience accomplishments in <U>every</U> session.  There is nothing more rewarding than that.  And no one ever gets hurt.</div> <bR> <div> If you haven't tried clicker training, you're missing out.  The art of dog training has never been more fun, or rewarding, than it is using the methods we have available today.  Whether you just want a well-behaved companion, or you want to take the show circuit by storm, you owe it to your dog to try clicker training.  It could very well be the finest method ever discovered.  Contact a professional trainer and learn how to properly use the clicker to help the dog be his very best.  I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by what you see.  I don't say “Been there, done that” anymore.  Now I say “We're going places.”  And we are.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>Measuring Success </B></FONT>by Lori Roper<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" > , </FONT>Nexus Dogs <U>www.NexusDogs.com</U></div> <bR> <div> As a professional dog trainer, I have had occasion to work with many different kinds of dogs, from many different backgrounds, with many different problems.  Dogs who are not very well socialized, who are afraid of things; dogs that won't eat, won't take treats, won't look at their owners; dogs who are natural explorers, are easily distracted, or just plain crazy with excitement.  Owners who seek out training often have dogs with “issues.”</div> <bR> <div> Because I am committed to providing my clients with the tools that help them build a good relationship with their dogs, I spend a lot of time observing interactions.  I look at not just <B>what</B> the dogs and handlers are doing, but <B>how</B> they are doing.  And I try to help them see that too.</div> <bR> <div> Two of my teams exemplify this point.  One of the dogs was too stressed to take treats; the other was too excited to pay attention.  <U>With lots of hard work, practice and patience</U>, these two teams are now competing in agility.  Ribbons or not, placement aside, they have built wonderful relationships.</div> <bR> <div> When I think about these dogs, I realize that they have come so far, they have achieved so much.  <U>Dog training is not about where you go, but how you get there.  The measure of your success is not in how far up you go, but how far you have come.</U></div> <bR> <div> Thanks Summer and Sage, Susan and Vicki.  I'm so proud. </div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>DEALING WITH THE DOG WHO BARKS TOO DOG GONE MUCH  </B></div> <bR> <div> <FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Trebuchet MS" ><I><B><IMG SRC="40683610.png" border=0 width="131" height="97" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"> </B></I></FONT><I><B>Woof</B></I><B>.  </B><I><B>Woof, woof, woof</B></I>.</div> <div>     It's the sound we want to hear if a dangerous intruder</div> <div>     approaches, or during a spirited game of fetch at the dog park.</div> <div>     When a dog barks incessantly, however, it's a sound that can</div> <div>     spark neighborhood disputes, result in a citation, and even land</div> <div>     some canines at the local shelter. What's a dog lover to do?</div> <div> Step one, says JoAnne Spencer, behavior specialist with the Arizona Humane Society, is to find out when and why your dog barks so much and for how long.</div> <bR> <div> “Do some detective work,” she said.  “Ask your neighbors.  If anyone can attest to a barking dog, it's the people who live next door to you.  Also, leave your dog at home and take a walk around your block … and listen.  The key is for you to determine the cause of the barking.  Then you can devise a solution.”</div> <bR> <div> Many dogs bark because they have nothing else to do, Spencer said.  They're bored, lonely and frustrated.  Often, they're simply seeking attention. The fix?</div> <bR> <div> “Expand your dog's horizons and let him spend more time with you and other people,” she advises.  “Consider a doggie daycare for the times you cannot be home or ask a trusted friend or neighbor to play with him.  Teach him commands and practice for several minutes a day.  Play!  Go for walks.  Give him outlets for his energy and frustration, and reduce his feelings of social isolation.”</div> <bR> <div> Other dogs bark because they're protecting their territory; in these cases, your normally quiet dog erupts at the sight, smell or sound of a perceived intruder.  While that's a good thing if the threat is real, it can be problematic if your dog is easily aroused by the letter carrier, utility workers, stray cats and neighborhood kids.</div> <bR> <div> “Teach your dog a `quiet' command,” Spencer said, adding that it's key to intercede when your dog has barked two or three times.  “When your dog obeys the command, praise him or give him a small treat.”</div> <bR> <div> Other tips include distracting your dog (such as by playing ball with him in your yard while kids play in your neighborhood) and desensitizing him to the stimuli.  By slowly, and very carefully, exposing him to the world outside of his fence and introducing him to people who frequent your neighborhood, he will learn that not every “intruder” is a threat.</div> <bR> <div> Other tips for dealing with a barking dog include:</div> <div> <B><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c800000000.png" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">Have him/her spayed or neutered.  This will decrease his or her urge to escape </B></div> <div> <B>your yard and lessen his or her territorial behavior;</B></div> <div> <B><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c800000000.png" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">Keep your dog indoors when you are not home and/or at night.  It's not fair for </B></div> <div> <B>your dog to create a nonstop disturbance.  Just imagine how frustrated you'd be if your neighbor blared loud music all night!</B></div> <div> <B><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c800000000.png" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">Talk to your neighbors.  Let them know you're working on the problem and that you </B></div> <div> <B>understand their frustration.  Keep them “in the loop” and let them be part of the</B></div> <div> <B>solution.</B></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>contributed by the Arizona Humane Society</B></I></div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="3edb4c60.png" border=0 width="180" height="198" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>The Educated Dog  </B></FONT></div> <bR> <div> When you feel frustrated with your dog's behavior, remember that someone must teach a dog what is acceptable behavior and what is not. A dog that has not been given any instructions, training or boundaries can't possibly know what you expect of him. By teaching your dog how you want him to behave, you will not only have a saner household, but a healthier and happier dog as well.</div> <div> <B>An Educated Dog:</B></div> <div> -Allows you to handle every part of his body, to check for injury or illness and to give him medication.</div> <div> -Has good manners, so he can spend most of his time indoors with his people, which means more supervision, less boredom and fewer opportunities for mischief. The more time you spend with your dog, the more likely you will be to notice when something is wrong with him, such as a limp, a cough, a sensitive area or loss of appetite. By recognizing such irregularities early, you can seek medical attention immediately and, hopefully, prevent more</div> <div> serious problems.</div> <div> -Wants to stay near you, listening for instructions (and praise). This means he will have less opportunity to get into trouble.</div> <div> -Will walk or run beside you on a leash without pulling, dragging or strangling, so you and your dog can get more  exercise and spend more time together.</div> <div> -Knows that “drop it” and “leave it alone” are phrases that mean business, so he will have fewer opportunities to swallow dangerous objects. He also can be taught what things and places are out of bounds, like hot stoves, heaters or anxious cats. However, you will still need to limit his access to dangerous places when you cannot supervise or instruct him.</div> <div> -Will “sit” immediately, simply because you say so. No matter what danger may be imminent, a dog that is suddenly still is suddenly safe. And a dog that will “stay” in that position is even safer.</div> <div> -Understands his boundaries, knows what's expected of him and has few anxieties. Less stress means a healthier dog.</div> <bR> <div> <B>By training your dog, you can help prevent tragedy and develop a better relationship with him. Keep in mind, however, that even an educated dog needs supervision, instruction and boundaries -sometimes even physical boundaries. Allowing your dog, no matter how educated he may be, to walk, run or roam outside of a fenced area or off of a leash, is putting him in danger</B>.</div> <div>  Re<FONT SIZE="1" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" > </FONT>printed with permission     <IMG SRC="3f1c5220.png" border=0 width="197" height="34" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">      </div> <bR> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><IMG SRC="3e4f6cd0.png" border=0 width="246" height="205" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>In Case of Emergency…</B></FONT><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>By Lori Roper, Nexus Dogs </B></FONT></div> <div> <FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000FF" FACE="Arial" ><B><U>NexusDogs@cox.net</U></B></FONT> , <B>623-869-8050</B></div> <bR> <div>   Like most of you, I have been affected by</div> <div>   tragedy.  Most recently, I had family in both</div> <div>   Hurricane Katrina and Hurricane Rita.  Now</div> <div>   more of my family faces Hurricane Wilma.  I</div> <div>   had good friends near the Cave Creek fires</div> <div>   as well.  I couldn't help but wonder if events</div> <div>   like these prompt other people, like they do</div> <div>   me, to consider what would happen to their dogs if there was an emergency at their house.  Here's my short list of things to do to prepare your dogs for an emergency.</div> <bR> <div> Socialize your dogs.  This could very well be the most important part of your plan.  When there is an emergency, it is likely that someone other than you will have to handle your pet.  Dogs should allow strangers to reach for them, pick them up, and hold them comfortably.  Quick response teams should not have to be afraid of your dog when trying to clear the house.  Proper socialization includes more than just meeting new people.</div> <bR> <div> Crate train your dogs.  Most of the people I have spoken to who work in emergency services have said that crated dogs are the only ones who can be safely and effectively removed from a home.  Crates are also necessary for owner evacuation, since they are the safest way for dogs to travel.  Even if you don't leave your dog in a crate every time you leave the house, your dog should be willing to be crated for short periods.  Make the crate as comfortable as possible and teach your dog to use it happily.</div> <bR> <div> Learn what to pack, where to go, and what to do.  Oh, and don't forget CPR.  A professional dog trainer can help you get your dog ready in case of an emergency.  It's well worth the investment, to be prepared.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Times New Roman" ><B>The Game of Life</B></FONT><B>  </B>by Lori Roper, Nexus Dogs</div> <bR> <div> Reward-based dog training is simple & fun.  All you have to do is reward and name the behaviors you like.  Those behaviors increase and the dog begins to associate each one of them with the appropriate cue.  That's simple.  Your dog GETS something HE wants and DOES something YOU want.  That's fun.</div> <bR> <div> Traditionally, people who want to train a dog decide on the cues before they decide on the behaviors.  “I want to teach my dog to sit.”  And although there is nothing wrong with wanting to teach the dog to sit, dog training is really about behavior, not cues.  Some of the most well-behaved dogs I have ever met don't sit on command or stay.  They just live well with their families.  They don't beg or bark.  They walk politely on a leach or bring back the ball.  Frequently, no cues are used at all.  They just know, from experience, how the game is played.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="3bd888e0.jpg" border=0 width="136" height="142" ALIGN="RIGHT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">So, think about your daily routine.  Your dog should be a good fit with your lifestyle.  Select a dog who matches your energy level, one who can excel at your favorite activities, or one who will lie beside you on the couch.  Then, encourage the dog to perform the behaviors you like by giving her a reason to want to do them.  Make it a good deal.</div> <bR> <div> Train for one simple behavior or a complicated sport.  Plan a single session or a life-long goal.  Reward a special snuggle or an entire behavior chain.  Just get into the game.</div> <bR> <div> <I>Lori is a dog trainer and can be reached at </I><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#0000FF" FACE="Times New Roman" ><A HREF="mailto:nexusdogs@cox.net" TARGET="_top" TITLE="mailto:nexusdogs@cox.net"><I><U>nexusdogs@cox.net</U></I></A></FONT><I>   </I></div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="3a89d780.png" border=0 width="157" height="120" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>Get a Clue, Use a Cue</B></FONT><B> </B>By Lori Roper, Nexus Dogs</div> <div> <A HREF="mailto:NexusDogs@cox.net" TARGET="_top" TITLE="mailto:NexusDogs@cox.net"><U>NexusDogs@cox.net</U></A></div> <div> Now we know that we can increase desirable behaviors in our pets simply by rewarding those behaviors when they occur.  We also know that we can decrease undesirable behaviors by controlling the environment, and our own behavior, around our dog.  So, how do we get our dogs to do what we want, when we want it?  By giving them a clue, of course.</div> <bR> <div> Dogs learn by association.  They associate events in the environment with behaviors they perform.  Dog training entails helping the dog make certain associations.  I call this “naming” the behavior.  The dog performs a behavior, I give it a name.  As the dog repeats the behavior, I repeat the name.  Soon the dog associates the behavior with the name, and I can begin to ask for that behavior by name.</div> <bR> <div> “Names” like sit, stay, down and come are called cues.  A cue gives the dog information about what she should do now.  The most common types of cues used in dog training are words and hand signals, but anything can be a cue.  Let me repeat that…ANYTHING that gives the dog information about what he is expected to do now can be a cue.</div> <bR> <div> Make your own associations that get your dog to perform the behaviors you like.  You can teach your dog to go to his bed when the doorbell rings, or to sit when company enters.  Try having the dog leave the dining room when you sit down to dinner or bring you a Kleenex when you sneeze.  Don't expect your dog to make these associations by herself.  Give her a clue, by using a cue.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="388c0980.png" border=0 width="192" height="152" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"><B>LIFE REWARDS </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >by Lori Roper, Nexus Dogs@cox.ne</FONT></div> <bR> <div>   The theory of positive training tells us that rewarding dogs</div> <div>   for good behavior can increase that behavior.  We know</div> <div>   that rewards can be anything the dog likes.  We also know</div> <div>   that we can often control what behavior gets rewarded.</div> <div>   That's what training is all about.  What we frequently forget</div> <div>   is that the dog sometimes rewards himself.  Things that</div> <div>   exist in the environment that can be rewarding to a dog are called Environmental, or Life, Rewards.  Life rewards can be found anywhere, at anytime, and dogs are notorious for doing just that.  Examples of life rewards are roast beef, bunny rabbits, new shoes, or loving pats.</div> <bR> <div> Many of the behaviors that my clients complain to me about can be traced back to life rewards.  Here are just a few of them.</div> <bR> <div>      My dog gets up on the kitchen counter and last night she got the roast beef.</div> <div> <B>     </B>My dog pulls me toward the rabbits when we walk in the park.</div> <div>      My (teething) puppy chewed up my new shoes.</div> <div>      My dog jumps on anyone who will pet her.</div> <bR> <div> Obviously, controlling the environment is an important part of having a well-behaved dog.  Consider whether undesirable behavior is being rewarded and make environmental changes part of your training plan.  “Puppy proof” your house to remove things that might increase bad behaviors and train desirable behaviors in </div> <div> distraction-free environments first.  Slowly add distractions after your dog can do the behaviors well.</div> <bR> <div> It's been said that dogs learn something every waking minute.  What your dog learns during those minutes is up to you.  ALWAYS encourage good behavior and ALWAYS discourage bad behavior in the presence of your dog. Control the environment because you can't train every minute of every day.  And build a good relationship with your dog…that's its own life reward.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="365887b0.jpg" border=0 width="136" height="123" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>Fun, Effective, Rewarding Training    </B></FONT></div> <div> <B> </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >by Lori Roper, Nexus Dogs Canine Connection: 623-869-8050</FONT></div> <div>   <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Bodoni MT" >Reward-based training is fun and effective.  This kind of training has been used on many different animals, by many different people, for many different behaviors.  From dolphins to chickens, horses to zoo animals, cats and dogs, reward-based training has been used successfully for years.  It's very easy to implement and it's fun.  For dog training, reward the behaviors you want the dog to repeat.</FONT></div> <bR> <div> So, what's a reward?  Anything the dog says it is.  Rewards are items for which the dog is willing to work.  Rewards are determined by the dog's individual tastes.  Anything the dog likes can be used to reward desirable behavior.  Examples are favorite foods, favorite toys, praise and pats.  I like to use food because it is fast and convenient, and most dogs will work for it.</div> <bR> <div> Try different things.  Take notice of each item's “value.”  Things that your dog really, really likes, things that she is willing to do almost anything for, are high value.  High value rewards are especially useful when training new or very important behaviors, like come, where safety is an issue.  They can also be used when training in the presence of distractions.  Like people, dogs seem to like variety.  Use all kinds of treats.  Mix them up in the same treat bag so your dog never knows what she will get next.  Keep it interesting.</div> <bR> <div> Treat heavily for desirable behaviors.  The more rewarded a behavior is, the more likely it is to be repeated.  Don't be stingy.  If you are concerned that you dog will gain weight, cut back on her food a little during training.  It's well worth it when the results are good behavior AND wagging tails.  Jackpot!!!</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="343fcbf0.jpg" border=0 width="252" height="191" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>Obedience, anyone? </B><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >…</FONT><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" > </FONT><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >by Lori Roper,</FONT></div> <div>    <FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >Nexus Dogs Canine Connection: 623-869-8050</FONT></div> <div>   I've worked with people who want to be involved</div> <div>   in competition.  My clients do Agility,</div> <div>   Conformation, Obedience, and Rally.  We're</div> <div>   having a blast training and going to trials together.</div> <div>   Competition is a wonderful goal for some dog</div> <div>   owners and I encourage people to look into dog</div> <div>   sports as a great way to spend time with their pets.</div> <bR> <div> Whether you are interested in dog sports or just want a well-behaved dog, training begins with a plan.  Think about what you want your dog to do, make an appropriate training plan, and create an encouraging environment.  Get ready, get set, and then go.</div> <bR> <div> Training plans can be simple or complicated.  I like to keep dog training fun and informal so my training plans tend to be easy to implement and designed to fit my clients' lifestyles.  Observe your dog's behavior to see where you have to start and then decide where you want to go.  Very often you can build on one or more of your dog's present behaviors to reach your training goals.  Dogs naturally sit, stay, come, and lie down.  All you're really doing is teaching the dog when and where to do these behaviors.  Dog training frequently consists of simply “tweaking” natural canine behavior.</div> <bR> <div> Keep your training sessions short and exciting.  Always start with a behavior that your dog can successfully do and end the same way.  In other words, begin and end every training session with a success.  Bring plenty of patience…reliable behavior takes lots of practice.  And have fun.  Treat behaviors like tricks, and training sessions like play dates.</div> <bR> <div> Dog training helps you build a good relationship with your dog.  It helps your dog fit comfortably into your family.  Isn't that why you got a dog in the first place?</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>If You Can't Play Nice</B><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >…</FONT><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" > </FONT><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >by Lori Roper, Nexus Dogs Canine Connection: 623-869-8050</FONT></div> <div>     </div> <div>    <FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Tempus Sans ITC" >A simple description of reward-based dog training is to reward behavior you like and <IMG SRC="324a9a60.png" border=0 width="169" height="166" ALIGN="RIGHT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">ignore behavior you don't.  But, ignore doesn't mean do nothing. Because I think of dog training as relationship building, I don't use corrections when I train.  Instead, I try to apply life lessons.  My favorite one for eliminating undesirable behavior is “If you can't play nice, you can't play at all.”</FONT></div> <div>    The word “ignore” in positive dog training really means ignore the dog, not ignore the behavior.  What you really want to do is, never give the dog attention when she's performing undesirable behavior.  Never pet the dog, feed the dog, or talk to the dog when she's jumping, begging, or barking.  You can take this a step further by giving the dog a “timeout.”  If your dog can't greet company politely at the door, she doesn't get to greet company at the door.  It's a bit more complicated than that, but simply put, a timeout means removing the dog from the situation that caused the bad behavior in the first place.  Redirecting the dog also works.  To redirect, simply </div> <div> interrupt the behavior and give the dog something else to do.  This method is far more </div> <div> effective if the new behavior satisfies the same desire as the old behavior.  Replacing the sofa cushions with an appropriate chew toy for a teething puppy would be one example.</div> <div>    The method I think is the best for eliminating problems is training an incompatible </div> <div> behavior.  You can literally replace bad behaviors with good ones.  It's fun, rewarding and very effective.  Don't get angry, get busy.  </div> <div>    And remember, play nice.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> Does your dog get on the furniture and refuse to get off? Nudge your hand and insist<IMG SRC="30ec0f10.png" border=0 width="192" height="241" ALIGN="RIGHT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"> on being petted or played with? Refuse to come when called? Defend his food bowl or toys from you? If so, a training technique called "Nothing In Life Is Free" may be just the solution you're looking for. "Nothing In Life Is Free" is not a magic pill that will solve a specific behavior problem. Instead, it's a way of living with your dog that will help him behave better because he trusts and accepts you as his leader and is confident knowing his place in the family.</div> <bR> <div> How to Practice "Nothing In Life Is Free" Use positive reinforcement methods to teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks. "Sit," "Down," and "Stay" are useful commands. "Shake," "Speak," and "Roll over" are fun tricks to teach your dog. Once your dog has mastered a few commands, you can begin to practice "Nothing In Life Is Free." Before you give your dog anything (food, a treat, a walk, a pat on the head) he must first perform one of the commands he has learned. For example: YOU: YOUR DOG:Put your dog's leash on to go for a walk - must sit until you've put the leash on. Feed your dog - must lie down and stay until you've put the bowl down. Play a game of fetch after work - must sit and "shake hands" each time you throw the toy. Rub your dog's belly while watching TV - must lie down and roll over before being petted.</div> <bR> <div> Once you've given the command, don't give your dog what he wants until he does what you want. If he refuses to perform the command, walk away, come back a few minutes later, and start again. If your dog refuses to obey the command, be patient and remember that eventually he will have to obey your command to get what he wants. Make sure your dog knows the command well and understands what you want before you begin practicing "Nothing In Life Is Free."</div> <div> The Benefits of this Technique</div> <bR> <div> Most dogs assume a neutral or submissive role toward people, but some dogs will challenge their owners for dominance. Requiring a dominant dog to work for everything he wants is a safe, non-confrontational way to establish control. Dogs who may never display aggressive behavior such as growling, snarling, or snapping may still manage to manipulate you. These dogs may display affectionate behavior that borders on being "pushy," such as nudging your hand to be petted or "worming" their way onto the furniture to be close to you. This technique gently reminds the dog that he must abide by your rules. Fearful dogs may become more confident by obeying commands. Having a strong leader and knowing his place in the hierarchy helps to make the submissive dog feel more secure.</div> <bR> <div> Why This Technique Works-Animals who live in groups, like dogs, establish a social structure within the group called a dominance hierarchy. This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict, and promote cooperation among pack members. To ensure that your home is a safe and happy place for pets and people, it's best that the humans in the household assume the highest positions in the dominance hierarchy. Practicing "Nothing In Life Is Free" gently and effectively communicates to your dog that his position in the hierarchy is subordinate to yours.</div> <div>                                                                                                                                          Source:  <B><U>www.hsus.org</U></B></div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <I><B><IMG SRC="2d49bc20.gif" border=0 width="155" height="194" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">Q: During the holiday season I noticed my dog's behavior seemed to regress  --- we never did any formal training with him--is now the time to start?</B></I></div> <div>  </div> <div> A: The holiday season can be an extremely stressful time for our canine companions. We put up trees and decorations and place wrapped gifts everywhere including the floor. Can you imagine how strange it must all suddenly seem? Trees inside the house instead of outside and all those wrapped boxes within easy reach! We welcome guests into our homes sometimes for days or weeks at a time, we host parties and family dinners and watch our own stress levels go up  and then seem totally mystified when our pets start reacting in ways that seem odd or unusual to us. </div> <bR> <div> Behaviors start to regress because  consistency is no longer part of their routine and they start to react to our own changing stress levels. Inconsistency causes higher stress levels in our dogs because they are no longer sure what the rules are. Just the introduction of new people into their environment can change the pack order. People greet our dogs in unfamiliar ways-- bending over the top of them, making direct eye contact, touching them around their faces, heads, neck, or back. They may even try to hug them or kiss them. Dogs DO NOT like to be hugged and kissed. It feels like restraint to them and can trigger a bite out of fear or aggression. </div> <bR> <div> A shy dog may feel absolutely overwhelmed and may react in a variety of ways. Early prevention includes positive reinforcement obedience and behavior training. If you find yourself in a class where you are taught to "mark" "wrong behaviors" with a collar correction or a loud "NO" or sound cue, re-think your training choice. Never pin down, shake, choke, hang, or roll a dog over to teach him a lesson. Involve your entire family in the training and never allow your children to punish a family pet. </div> <bR> <div> Spay or neuter your dog at the earliest recommendation from your veterinarian. If he doesn't bring it up, don't be afraid to ask. Altered dogs are usually calmer, healthier, and less likely to become aggressive (especially towards weaker family members such as children).Do not assume your dog is good with all people or children even if he has never shown signs of aggression or bitten before and never leave your dog alone with people or children he doesn't know. </div> <bR> <div> Introduce your dog to new things in his environment slowly and with tons of praise and positive reinforcement. Always supervise when other people are trying to greet your dog. Congestion and excitement at the door can wreak havoc and can even trigger a bite or in the case of multiple dogs, a fight. A "greeting place" is a good idea. Maybe outside where they don't feel so vulnerable and confined or a specific "place"  used for greeting. That way they know what's going to happen and you can easily supervise a friendly non-threatening first greeting. </div> <bR> <div> Maintain as much routine and consistency as possible during stressful times. If you haven't done any training don't expect your pet to know what to do when circumstances change. If you have done training but haven't kept up with it you may want to consider a refresher course. </div> <div> <B>By Shannon Holstein   </B>www.kokopelli-k9.com </div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><IMG SRC="2c3b1b20.jpg" border=0 width="177" height="178" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">Whinning</B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>:    </B></FONT></div> <div>    by Peninsula  Humane Society & SPCA</div> <div>    www.peninsulahumanesociety.org</div> <bR> <div> <B>Cause</B></div> <div> Many dogs whine when left alone. Puppies often whine and cry when separated from their guardian. The puppy is afraid he is being abandoned by his pack and is sounding the alarm so that he can be rescued. Excessive whining continues because the dog has learned that all he has to do is whine, cry, or bark to get whatever he wants attention, food, affection. What starts out as a demand for attention soon becomes habit.</div> <bR> <div> <B>Treatment</B></div> <div> To prevent this annoying habit, teach your dog to accept short periods of confinement before leaving him alone for long periods. Spend time with the dog in the area where he is left and show him that this is a fun place. If he starts to whine or cry when you leave, don't rush back to let him out or reassure him. If you do, he will learn that he can control you with vocal, emotional blackmail. If he does bark, whine, or complain, he probably is not yet comfortable in his confinement area. Spend a little more time with him there. Then, when you leave, if he barks or whines, give him a firm but calm NO! After he has been quiet for a few moments, return and praise him lavishly.</div> <bR> <div> Practice leaving and returning several times, so he becomes accustomed to yourdepartures and realizes that you are not abandoning him forever and that you willreturn. Practice leaving him for longer and longer periods, but start out by leaving forjust a few minutes, then returning to let him out . but only if he's quiet. </div> <bR> <div> If your dog is whining when you are at home, either for attention or just out of habit, provide him with daily routines of play, exercise, and training. Often, these special times of undivided attention will stop the dog from whining for the rest of the day. Ignore him whenever he begins demanding your attention. Each time you give into your dog's demands, you are training him to continue demanding. If you want a few moments of peace, you can teach the dog to be quiet on request. Gently ask your dog to please.  Be quiet. If he ignores you and continues whining, say  BE QUIET! louder squirt the dog in the face with water. After a few repetitions, he will get the idea and obey the first gentle request of Be quiet, rather than waiting for the loud voice or the spray of water. </div> <bR> <div> Unusual whining or whining that starts suddenly when it never existed before may be your dog's way of telling you that he is uncomfortable or in pain. See your veterinarian right away to be sure no health problems exist.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <div> “ Don't Blame Me…...Train Me”  by Shannon Holstein,  Kokopelli Dog & Puppy Training  480-839-3118</div> <bR> <div> <FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B><IMG SRC="2bc6e6c0.jpg" border=0 width="110" height="108" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></FONT><B>Barking </B>is probably the number one complaint by neighbors....maybe your neighbor. Many times the first indication of a (noisy canine) problem is a nasty note from a neighbor or a warning from your friendly neighborhood animal control officer. Many situations can lead to barking.</div> <div>  </div> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="0" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="486" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="480"><div> l<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >unfamiliar people or animals entering a yard</FONT></div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 ><NOBR><div> l<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >triggered prey drive (rabbit, cat, squirrel running through the yard)</FONT></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 38 ><NOBR><div> l<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >new or unusual sounds (neighbors working in their yards or on</FONT></div> <div>    their houses)</div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="480"><div> l<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >another barking dog in the neighborhood</FONT></div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 38 ><NOBR><div> l<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >separation from the pack (you are your dog's pack--separation</FONT></div> <div>    can cause great stress and anxiety in your dog)</div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 ><NOBR><div> l<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >boredom, need for attention, food, or affection.</FONT></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div>   </div> <div> Prevention starts early. Socializing puppies at an early age to a variety of people, animals, and noises can reduce anxieties as the dog grows up. Situational management, training, and consistency are imperative. Young pups should learn to spend some of their time playing or relaxing alone. Beds, crates and pens are all safe areas to leave them in. When you give in to demand barking, you reinforce the very behavior you are trying to avoid. In addition you are proving to your pup that his barking works, which means next time he will try harder and longer until he gets the desired result. Correcting a barking problem may be very difficult if you don't have a clear understanding of the situations and stimuli that initiate the barking. Unless you establish leadership through consistency and training, success is unlikely. A behaviorist can set up controlled desensitization exercises, teach your dog to speak and quiet on command, and decrease anxiety that may be the cause  of increased  barking. Punishment is almost always ineffective in the management of this or other anxiety caused  behaviors.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>“Don't Blame Me…..Train me </B></div> <div> by Shannon Holstein, Kokopelli Dog & Puppy Training</div> <bR> <div> <B>Q</B>: <B>Ever since our dog learned how to scale our 8' cinder block wall, exploring the world beyond has become the driving force in his life. Any advice?</B></div> <bR> <div>  <B>A</B>: Dogs may perform the great escape for a variety of reasons. The most common reasons are boredom and anxiety while an un-neutered male may be pursuing an in season female in the neighborhood. Whatever the reason may be immediate attention to the situation is called for. In case your dog completes his escape make certain your dog's collar has current identification tags and micro-chipping is a great back up in the event your dog slips his collar.</div> <div>  </div> <div>  If you need to confine your dog to a fenced yard for several hours be sure you give him something to do to avoid boredom. Boredom to a thinking animal  is a time bomb waiting to go off. Struggling to escape may cause injury to your dog not to mention that frustration at a failed attempt may result in destruction and damage to property. In addition, they may dig and destroy trees and shrubs by tearing at bark and branches or digging at the roots..</div> <bR> <div> I have seen dogs literally pull siding off the side of a house and use lawn furniture as play things. If you don't give them something to do that is mentally stimulating and self rewarding they will create their own entertainment. You can provide a simple| digging pit  by using a hard plastic swimming pool  filled with sand, toys, biscuits, and knuckle bones (for example). If they're digging where the ground is moist, try wetting the sand down with the garden hose. Make your yard more interesting before you leave by "hiding" self rewarding items. A joint bone, cow hoof, biscuit, bully stick, rawhides or maybe even a new toy (like an I Cube or kong) with goodies inside, placed in an unexpected location will catch their attention and can provide hours of appropriate entertainment. The idea is to let them "discover it" so don't let them see you place any of your surprises for them. Your goal is to try and make your yard more interesting than the outside world for the period of time you are gone. In addition you may need to do some boundary work around your yard and back gate. Boundary work can be fairly easy if you have established a solid and consistent foundation of behavior and obedience. If you haven't, the training can still be done but may take a little longer. Be patient and remember it is never too late to do training. The help of a good trainer/behaviorist may be something you want to consider. If your dog suffers from separation anxiety, they shouldn't be left outside at all unless you're home to supervise. Being home alone in a large area may only serve to increase their anxiety. They may feel less anxious being confined in a crate or small room.....you may want to consider one of the many natural/holistic treatments available (such as the Bach remedies) or consult your veterinarian. It's important to discover the reasons they are trying to escape and then implement a plan. If they're bored, provide them with something to do. If they're anxious, consult your vet and a behaviorist/trainer. </div> <div> Deny access to raised planting surfaces and get help teaching yard boundaries.</div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><IMG SRC="2868cc40.jpg" border=0 width="140" height="196" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">Why I Chose to be a Canine Behavior Consultant</B></div> <div> <B> </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Bookman Old Style" >by Shannon Holstein,  Kokopelli Dog & Puppy Training</FONT></div> <bR> <div> I was fortunate to have the opportunity to live on the beautiful island of Oahu, Hawaii for 4 years. While there I couldn't help but notice the general attitude towards animals in general. It was a common sight to see young  rottweilers and pitbulls wearing heavy weighted chains around their necks. Some were not even able to lift their heads above their shoulders. There was no consideration for the discomfort or well being of the puppy. The goal was to have the biggest muscled dog on the block. Training methods were often brutal: hanging, hitting, yelling were accepted training practices. Most trainers were believers in choke chains and pronged pinch collars. If they  collapsed a trachea or killed a dog they would just move on to the next one. The owner would actually go out and start over with a new dog. The expendability mentality was just as pervasive there as it is everywhere.    </div> <bR> <div> So when I got a new puppy I was on the look out for a kinder gentler way of training. I was fortunate to find a behaviorist who was working hard to change the mentality. During four years of observing, working, and training,  it became clear to me that not enough people knew of this type of training----obedience was combined with an understanding of behavior and temperament and an explanation of what the difference was. All behavior issues were handled in a non-physical way ( no chokes, no prongs, no intimidation of any kind) and most of all there was a real effort to educate people about the differences. I absolutely wanted to be part of the solution, so when I moved to Arizona I set to work establishing my company. When classes were established, my focus was working towards an outreach program. I thought the best place to start was with our kids. I targeted schools and </div> <div> organized youth programs, and set up a junior volunteer program. Kids are so open to learning and sharing, especially if their first experience is a positive one. ....... and that's just what we need if we are going to change the current mentality.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><IMG SRC="259809c0.jpg" border=0 width="128" height="156" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">Don't Blame Me…..Train Me</B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Lucida Sans" ><B> </B></FONT></div> <div> by Shannon Holstein</div> <bR> <div> Mental stimulation as well as physical exercise is very important for our dogs. As they get older and become seniors, they may not be able to exercise as much as they once did. There are a couple of games that come to mind which will help keep them mentally stimulated and will be entertaining for you as well as motivating them to get up and move. </div> <bR> <div> The GO FIND IT, SEARCH, OR SEEK game will go a long ways towards mental stimulation. Start by putting your dog in a sit or down stay and placing a treat in an obvious but very short distance away (don't hide it yet). As you leave the treat, give your go find it command. Be very excited and wildly enthusiastic when your dog "finds it". Repeat these steps a couple of times and then very gradually start increasing the distance between the dog and the treat. When your dog is showing excited interest in the game, try partially hiding the treat. Repeat this step several times before hiding it completely. Don't forget to give the go find it command every time and always be excited when they discover it. By practicing these steps it won't be long before you are hiding the treat in another room or even a different part of the house. Once the dog is hooked on the game you can move it to the back yard. Try hiding a favorite toy for variety or even a person. Just instruct them to "go find __________" and make sure that person has a treat or toy to reward with once they are found. Every time you play the game with a new object or person, repeat all the beginning steps, remembering to start very close to your dog and then gradually moving a little further away and eventually hiding. Don't be in a hurry; do everything gradually and consistently and don't forget to reward and praise. </div> <bR> <div> Another simple game is the target or touch game. Start with an item of interest to your dog: a favorite toy or ball perhaps. Hold the item next to his nose and when he touches the toy, mark the action/behavior with an enthusiastic YES! and immediately reward. Once he is repeatedly and reliably touching the item you can start moving the item (at first) side to side. He should follow the movement and attempt to touch it. You literally can get your dog to walk at your side in heel position in his attempt to touch the item. It generally takes about 15 minutes to teach a dog to consistently touch. Once you have completed this first step you can turn the game into a "go touch" game by placing the item on the floor in front of them and then gradually moving it further away as they attempt to touch it. Eventually, you will be sending them across the room, house, or yard to go touch.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>The Importance of Dog Training</B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Tempus Sans ITC" ><B>: </B></FONT><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Tempus Sans ITC" ><B>source: American Kennel Club website: akc.org</B></FONT></div> <div> <B>    </B></div> <div> <B>Training your dog is an absolute necessity. Just like children, dogs come into the world filled with love and curiosity, but not manners. They need to be taught how to get along in the family. That includes eliminating outside, behaving properly in the house, and being polite to people and other animals. This is a demanding, yet enjoyable job that begins the moment the dog enters your house and you Training makes dogs happy. By nature, dogs prefer a society with rules, where everybody knows his place. When you teach dogs the rules of your family, they feel secure knowing exactly what they are and aren't allowed to do. Dogs will test you from time to time, to see if anything has changed. That's one reason it's so important to keep the same rules and the same schedules every day.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>You set the stage for the successful education of your dog. You must be confident and consistent when training. Your goal is to get the dog to respond to your request, delivered in a cheerful voice. Training any dog takes time. It's up to you to set a positive, happy tone for training.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>With all breeds, being too hard on a dog will only teach him to fear you and others. He can become overly fearful or overly aggressive. Tell your dog what to do, but respect him for whom he is. Don't hold a grudge when the dog misbehaves. He will forget his mistakes in a few minutes. If you stay angry he'll just wonder why you aren't friends anymore. Enroll in an obedience class for advice and support in the training process.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Make a habit of pointing out your dog's good behavior to him - he wants to please you, so he'll remember to do it again. When he does something wrong, show him the right thing to do, then praise him. Praise and rewards are the key to successful training. Your dog will work hard for you if you show him what makes you happy. </B></div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>“Dog Blame me…..Train Me” </B></div> <div> by Shannon Holstein, Kokopelli Dog & Puppy Training</div> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="22982c50.jpg" border=0 width="130" height="197" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">Recently we received a call from a woman who didn't understand her dog's recent incessant scratching behavior at the door. When I asked how recent, she immediately replied "today!". Well, today “happened to be a breathless triple digit day in sunny Arizona! She thought the elevated camper shell was adequate shelter. At a body temperature that hovers around 101+, her dog was HOT and desperate to be in where it was much cooler. She thought because he was a dog, he would be fine even though he was panting excessively and licking the glass door. </div> <bR> <div> I invited her to spend sometime with her dog under the camper shell --- and in the spirit of fairness she might first want to don her (hopefully faux) fur coat. She laughed and said her dog was used to being outside until she realized the her dog was yet to see his first birthday or his first Arizona summer! Fresh clean water should always be available. If you jog, walk, or hike with your dog don't forget Fido's canteen. If the ground is too hot for you to walk barefoot on, it's too hot for our canine friends. If Fido can't wait for his weekend hike you might want to invest in a set of insulated booties. They do double duty:  cooling and protecting their pads from hot and rough surfaces. </div> <bR> <div> Fido and his furry buddies need the same considerations we do-- fluids, shelter, rest (if you're hiking), and fitness considerations. Build up to hiking and walking distances. Check with your family veterinarian if you have a young dog and want him to accompany you; likewise if you're a jogger. Young bones, joints, muscles etc; are all considerations and your veterinarian is a valuable and dependable resource. In the mean time let Fido in out of the blistering sun and enjoy your summer.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>“Don't Blame Me…..Train Me” </B></I></div> <div> <B>by Shannon Holstein</B></div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="21dfba00.png" border=0 width="251" height="160" ALT="Presentations 11 Drawing" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">With vacation time fast approaching you may be wondering about whether or not to include or rather how to include Rover in your travel plans. Any change in a routine schedule will cause stress in your pet, so give serious thought to available options and what will be best for Rover. </div> <bR> <div> There are dependable pet sitters committed to maintaining a consistency in Rover's schedule. Feeding times, exercise, mental stimulation, and even quiet times are all maintained. On the other hand, you may decide that Rover is fine spending his nights alone with feeding and exercise visits a couple of times a day. </div> <bR> <div> Some owners are more comfortable kenneling their dog away from home. Responsible private boarders will take into consideration Rover's personality (will he get along with other dogs and caregivers?), his age and activity level (does he need solitary walk/play time or would he just love to play with other boarders?). Ask questions. How long are the play sessions (longer isn't necessarily better), how many dogs are allowed in a play session, are the sessions structured or is it a free for all? How well supervised are the play times? How many do they get in a day? How do they evaluate different personalities and temperaments, where will they sleep, where do they eat etc.  Ask for references and credentials. Ask the same questions of the bigger "Pet Hotels". In addition, ask if there is 24 hour staff on duty ......... and don't forget to plan far enough ahead that you can go observe daily activity. Is it really as good as it sounds? You may also want to speak with your veterinarian. He may have a couple of kennels set aside to help out clients in need. Be aware that exercise usually consists of bathroom breaks and no play session. Some pets may find themselves in the company of a trusted family member or neighbor. </div> <bR> <div> In the end, Rover may be sitting next to the car with his pooch bag packed and his frisbee hanging out of his mouth saying "Let's Go"! Whether he goes or stays, planning is key.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> Even though Kokopelli Dog and Puppy Training specializes in behavior and obedience we frequently get calls from people asking us to help find new homes for unwanted pets. In one ten day period in March we had calls for 8 dogs needing new homes. The youngest was 9 weeks-----the oldest was 2 years and the justifications were endless. The excuses ranged from too many accidents in the house, too much digging, too much whining, too much jumping, too much time, too much work, too much barking, too much, too much, too much, etc; </div> <bR> <div> It seems that the 9 week old Doberman puppy whined too much, and wasn't housetrained yet !!! A 20 month old shepherd mix spends his days and nights in the back yard where he feels isolated and bored and apparently entertains himself by barking. His invitations to come inside are few .....It seems he becomes wild with excitement, knocking over furniture and people in his uncontrolled romp through the house. If walks are attempted at all, he finds himself in a pronged pinch collar and his barking is controlled with an electric shock collar. A 13 month old Briard's family wanted to euthanize their dog because they thought he was crazy. In truth he was an out of control teenager whose behavior had never been addressed. This family clearly did not have any understanding of the breed they had selected. Their sole criteria was size and looks. </div> <bR> <div>  <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>Yes, it takes time to be invested emotionally and committed to behavior training. Please take the time before getting your new dog to research the breed and educate yourself. </B></FONT></div> <bR> <div> Have you chosen a large breed, small breed, working breed, hunting breed, running breed. Is your chosen breed particularly independent, high energy, low energy ----- etc; If you have rescued a dog, be aware that they come with their own set of behavior issues and it may take as long as 90 days for all of them to show up. </div> <bR> <div> Go observe some obedience-behavior classes and more than one! Observe different trainers and decide on a training philosophy and stick with it. Consistency is imperative if your pup or dog is to be a well- mannered pet. Group classes are highly recommended for socialization and training under distraction. These classes are also great for building confidence in shy or reserved pups. (Anyone telling you puppies can't learn or retain training under the age of 6 months has no understanding of behavior or how canines process information.) Some owners may prefer a combination of private one on one sessions as well as group classes. Still others may opt for private only. </div> <bR> <div> Whatever your choices, remember . . . dogs are perfect at being dogs. They don't know how to behave in our world until we show them. Don't expect them to know how to behave in the house if you haven't taken the time to work with them. If you don't have the time, the patience, or commitment it takes to develop a life long relationship with your puppy or new rescue, maybe now is not the time to consider getting a canine pet. </div> <bR> <div> Post Script: Of the 8 dogs mentioned previously 3 are in foster homes (thank you volunteers), 3 were adopted out, and 2 owners changed their minds and kept their dogs ( including the shepherd mix who is now in class as well as in his house. He is also out of the pronged pinch collar and shock collar)</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>“Don't Blame Me…..Train Me” by Shannon Holstein, Kokopelli Dog & Puppy Training            </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Q:</B> My dog has decided to re-landscape our yard by digging -- please help! </div> <bR> <div> <B>A:</B> Digging is a natural occurring dog behavior. Dogs dig for all sorts of reasons. Sometimes they're hiding treasure, finding treasure, creating cooling or warming pits. They may dig out of boredom, curiosity, or stress. </div> <bR> <div> Consider giving your dog their own digging pit complete with it's own buried treasure. You may want to donate a corner of your yard or simply use a hard plastic swimming pool filled with sand. The goal is to make the digging pit more interesting and rewarding than your new flower bed. </div> <bR> <div> Bury favorite toys, balls, chewies, knuckle bones, stuffed kongs, and even a biscuit or two. Can you imagine Fido's delight at discovering buried treasure. Part of their delight is the surprise of the discovery, so don't let them see you putting their surprises in the digging pit.  Let them discover it so they will go back time and time again to see if anything else has magically grown there since their last excavation! When temperatures soar, try wetting down the sand so that they can create a cooling pit to hang out in instead of your newly installed drip system. </div> <bR> <div> In the meantime, fill in previously created craters with Fido's own feces and cover. Fido won't "re-dig" old holes but may dig new ones if you don't provide him a rewarding digging pit of his own</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q: How can I keep my dog from jumping up on me or other people? </B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>A:</B> Jumping up is a common greeting behavior that usually starts in puppy hood and gets strongly reinforced in puppy hood. After all, it's very hard resist an adorable puppy jumping up for attention or to give kisses. The more you don't resist the behavior the more embedded the behavior becomes. As the pup grows older and bigger we start to realize that this behavior is not always acceptable to us any more, let alone to other people. We get frustrated with our now enthusiastic adolescent/teenage dog and employ non-effective and sometimes harmful methods such as kneeing in the chest, yelling, stepping on hind feet etc; None of these methods are very effective and only serve to confuse your dog or even injure him. We are such creatures of inconsistency that we will sometimes accept our jumping dog in a quick greeting or even make a game out of it!!! Every time you accept a jump-up, your dog starts to learn that if I just try long enough and hard enough someone will pet me and speak encouragingly to me. They don't understand why sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't so they just simply keep trying until they get some sort of response from you. </div> <bR> <div> The number one prevention is from day one never accept a jumping dog --- all greetings take place with all fours planted firmly on the floor. If your puppy/dog insists, give a command such as " off " (not down) and turn your back. The SECOND they get down give them the greeting they wanted in the first place. The greeting becomes the reward. If they jump again (which they probably will) repeat your command and turn away once more. Eventually, they will start to realize that instead of getting the greeting from you they want, they are simply ignored. By the same token, once they are down they can have the greeting they so desire. </div> <bR> <div> Try also to initiate the greeting before the jumping starts. At this point you are rewarding good behavior before the bad behavior takes place. As humans, we almost always do it the opposite way. </div> <div> For a very persistent pet or long standing habit pattern, you may want to contact a behaviorist to help get Fido back on the ground.</div> <bR> <div> <B>Why you should train your dog</B></div> <bR> <div> Dogs need to be taught how to get along both at home and outside.  Since dogs, by  nature, are pack animals,  there are rules and roles in a pack where everyone knows his place.  Your dog will feel more secure if you take the time to “show him the ropes..”  It is crucial that  your instruction be of a positive nature as dogs just want to please you.  Good behavior, rewarded by treats and praise should be repeated and will be remembered.  By using negative or angry responses, you may create a situation where your dog comes to fear you or becomes anxious and timid.  You may also, unwittingly be creating a climate that results in over aggressiveness in your pet.</div> <bR> <div> The training process, whether in a dog training class or on your own will help keep your dog challenged and happy.  Because they want to please you, they need to know the right things to do. Training does take time and practice but it is well worth it in terms of how your dog interacts not only with you but other people and dogs.</div> <bR> <div> Start by taking an obedience class.  Your dog does not need to be a puppy to take a class, by the way.  Actually your class instructor will train you to train your dog!</div> <bR> <div> “Make a habit of pointing out your dog's good behavior to him-he wants to please you, so he'll do it again.  When he does something wrong, show him the right things to do, then praise him.  Praise and rewards are the key to successful training.”  </div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Don't Blame em….Train em  </B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Bookman Old Style" > part 3 by Shannon Holstein, Kokopelli Dog & Puppy Training</FONT></div> <bR> <div> <B>Q</B>: My dog gets so excited when he sees his leash that it takes me several minutes to get it on him and calmed down enough to leave. </div> <bR> <div> <B>A</B>: Rover gets excited because of the association with the leash (walk, car ride, dog park etc;). Every time you bring the leash out it triggers excited anticipation. To help Rover calm down enough to get the leash on and get out the door try some of these techniques. Use non-walking times to desensitize your dog. Try making his leash part of his every day environment. Hang his leash (out of reach) on the back of a chair so he will get used to seeing it out and not necessarily used for a walk. When he no longer reacts to seeing the leash try picking it up and moving it to a new location . Make sure you move the leash in a very matter of fact and low-key manner. Over a period of time and </div> <div> after several moves try hanging the leash over your shoulder or even around your neck and go about your normal daily routine. As Rover's excitement level declines try snapping the leash on and off several times through out the day --------MAYBE one of those times he'll actually get to go for a walk or a ride. He's never quite sure if this will be the time he gets to go or not. Also, require the snapping on of the leash be earned by requesting a sit or down or maybe a settle command. Do Not put the leash on unless he does as asked. They will quickly learn to earn getting dressed for their outing.</div> <bR> <div> <B>Shannon Holstein</B></div> <div> Canine Behavior Consultant</div> <div> ©<B>KOKOPELLI Dog &  Puppy Training</B></div> <div> 480-839-3118</div> <div> <A HREF="id24.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Kokopelli Dog Puppy Training"><B>www.kokopelli-k9.com</B></A></div> <bR> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>“Don't Blame `Em-Train `Em"</B></div> <bR> <div> Q: “<B>My dog won't come when I call him if we're at the dog park; what should I do?”  </B>A:  Be creative.  Make it a game that your dog always wins and can never fail.  Keep moving.  As you move around the park, your dog will want to “find you”.  As Fido runs up to you say: Good Come!” in your happiest voice.  As your dog approaches you, excitedly praise and lightly grasp his collar while continuing to lavish him with praise.  When you notice that your dog is ready to go play, release him with a command such as “Free Dog” or “That's It” or “Go Play” (never “ok”); always in your happiest voice.  Do this every time your dog approaches and eventually Fido will associate good things with this command and will happily come to you in anticipation of his reward every time he hears you calll “Come.”  Making a fun, rewarding game of the “Come command” will allow your dog to develop a new and happy association with this command; one that he will happily respond to regardless of what he's doing at the time.  It's a win-win situation for both you & your dog.</div> <bR> <div> <B>Shannon Holstein</B></div> <div> Canine Behavior Consultant</div> <div> ©<B>KOKOPELLI Dog &  Puppy Training</B></div> <div> 480-839-3118</div> <div> <B>www.kokopelli-k9.com</B></div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <IMG SRC="12e90050.png" border=0 width="400" height="5" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>How do I select a dog park? </B></div> <bR> <div> The benefits of a dog park are numerous. Bark parks can provide a safe place for socializing your dog while playing off-leash. Selecting the best dog park for YOUR dog, however, should not be taken lightly. Visit several parks without your dog. Are the dogs interacting with their people or are their people unaware? </div> <bR> <div> Dogs tend to become territorial when their people are gathered in groups or talking on cell phones. Is the park overcrowded? Conflict between dogs is more likely to arise during peak hours. Are many of the dogs playing with toys? Caution may be advised in this case as dogs tend to be possessive. What’s next? You’ve done your homework; you’ve found a park that you think Fido will be happy with. Be aware that your apprehension will  communicate itself to your dog, so relax, stay watchful, and enjoy the experience.</div> <bR> <div> <B>Shannon Holstein</B></div> <div> Canine Behavior Consultant</div> <div> ©<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Bookman Old Style" ><B>KOKOPELLI Dog &  Puppy Training</B></FONT></div> <div> 480-839-3118</div> <div> <B>www.kokopelli-k9.com</B></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>